Words of Wisdom on Surf

Good Morning All. I've decided to take a break from surfing today and take my very first 'gua-gua' (small passenger van hauling people from town to town) into Puerto Plata. I'm so excited! I recieved a great email this morning reminding me: "thats the great thing about surfing, is that it is not you against anybody, just you improving yourself,... and as long as you are having a good time doing it, thats all that matters" This is so true! I had a terrible time with the waves yesterday, in fact I got rolled so hard, that I had water spontaneously pouring out my nose the entire day! The morning before yesterday, while putting my board, leash, wetsuit, and booties away, a seasoned surfer who has lived here for 30 years, asked me how it was going. I told him I had been feeling really discouraged and he told me not to worry - to just get out there and paddle, to work on beefing up my muscles first, try to catch a wave or two, and eventually it will just come. I'm loving this excellent advice, so if anyone else has any..........please send it my way! Namaste.