Saturday, April 26, 2008

Empty Beautiful Waves Everywhere!

Last week I set out for an adventure with my new board. I called a taxi to squeeze me and my board inside his tiny little sedan, and drop me off at a beach called Punta Barco - a.k.a. Playa Tetas. There was no one else in the water and only one other car at the deserted beach when the driver dropped me off, looking concerned he told me "be careful" as we exchanged the large sum of money to tote me down bad dirt roads to this deserted land and said our goodbyes. I walked the beach thoroughly, having been told that the rocks are jagged and dangerous, and not knowing where to catch the break without breaking any bones. Luckily, another fellow surfer (Jorge) with his girl (Monica) showed up and he signaled the universal 'surf on' to me as he passed me heading out to the waves. Yay, I grabbed my board and followed his same pathway to the wave. Jorge turned out to be a great surf partner, telling me which waves to go for, and letting me have most of them. Unfortunately, my little arms can only paddle for so long and we both went in after chatting it up on the waves for some time. On the beach they asked me if I was alone, and when I replied "yes", they both looked concerned. They asked how I got here, and I told them a taxi. They then asked if I'd like to join them at another difficult-to-get-to surf spot called Playa Esmiralda and I said 'sure'! We crammed three boards and three bodies into Monica's very new compact car, and all surfed Esmiralda together. They offered to drop me at the highway so that I could avoid the outrageous taxi fee and catch a bus back to El Palmar. I amazingly caught one that had a seat and a boy willing to hold my board jammed into his body the entire ride. From there, I walked home, feeling satisfied from good, solitary surf the entire day, tired arms, and incredible luck in meeting new Panamanian friends who were willing to show me around their beautiful, deserted surf spots.

1 comment:

amd said...

Jennio....WOW I loved this entry! This describes a perfect day to me. Muchos kudos to you on your bravery which seems to continue being rewarded. You are still my hero--living out that quixotic adventure of two lifetimes. I'll likely never catch up to you--but I WILL die trying!